New Mexico – The Land of Enchantment
New Mexico – “The Land of Enchantment”
This weekend I traveled to New Mexico, the land of enchantment. Did it live up to the hype?
Spoiler: YES.
Trip Overview:
Car Rental: Suggested – it’s a bit spread out and a car is the best way to get to everything
Places visited: Northern New Mexico ranging from Albuquerque and North to Taos
Activities: Sight Seeing, Food and Drink, Hiking
Month Visited: April
DAY 1 – Mountains, Musical Roads, and Madrid
Land in Albuquerque and make your way through the well-marked airport to the 1st floor of the airport. You’ll find a shuttle that runs every 5 minutes to the rental car center. Information here: Airport Rental Car Info
If it’s early enough, head straight to the Sandia Peak Tramway. This is the world’s third longest tramway (a “double reversible jig back aerial tramway”). It is also the longest tramway in the United States. It will take you about 15 minutes to travel the 2.7 miles from the base of the Sandia Mountain to the peak. Admission is 25$ for adults. Don’t forget a jacket as the winds will be gusty at the top and the temperature will be much colder. Plan to spend at least 15-45 minutes at the top. Sandia Peak Tramway
Alternate plan: If you have more time you can hike the numerous trails at the top. Also, it is possible to drive up to Sandia Peak instead of taking the tram. You’ll have to go around to the back of the mountain and the drive will put you in a different part of the peak.
Next, for all you Breaking Bad fans, you’re only about 15 minutes away from the filming location for Walter White’s home. The house is located at 3828 Piermont Drive. It’s a fun little drive by, but don’t try to throw pizza on the roof. The family that lives there has recently installed some cameras and I’ve heard police patrol the area. Remember if you visit – it’s private property and someone lives there. Be respectful.
Bonus: If you have more time there are entire websites dedicated to listing all the Breaking Bad filming locations in and around Albuquerque – most within 30 minutes of the house. For all you die-hard fans, this is your chance to create your own tour.
It’s road trip time now. We want to get to Santa Fe as soon as possible and before dark so we don’t miss the scenery along the way. You could just shoot straight up Rt. 25 and be there in about an hour – but you’re a wanderer and that’s not how you roll.
Plug in Musical Highway, Cibola National Forest, Rte 66, Tijeras, NM 87059 into your GPS. You’re about to drive over one of only two musical highways in the US. This short stretch of road was paid for by the National Geographic Channel for one of its TV broadcasts. If you do the speed limit you’ll hear the rumble strip play “America the Beautiful” as you drive over it. Check out the video I made below (If you want to record your own – safely please – make sure to hold your phone inside the car or you’ll only record wind noise). The song will only play when travelling in this direction and there will be a sign alerting you to slow down to exactly 45mph to hear it.
Continue to follow Route 40 until you hit Route 14. You’ll take Route 14 all the way to Santa Fe. It is known as the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway. I was the only car on the road for most of the trip and it’s very scenic. You’ll pass through several old towns that seem to be stuck as they were 40 years ago or more. Most are rundown, but if you have time stop in Madrid. That’s pronounced MAD-RID not MAH-DRID as in Spain. If it’s still light out you can park your car and kill an afternoon here. Plenty of spots to eat and a craft shopper’s heaven. Keep in mind that most of the little stores close early, so if it’s after 5pm you may want to just keep moving and hit this town on the way back. That’s what I did.
Bonus: Stop and take some photos at Connie’s Photo Park. Bring your camera and take photos behind a bunch of silly face-in-hole style props. “Use your own camera, leave a donation” the sign on the side of the road says.
When you arrive in Santa Fe, there are two main areas to concern yourself with. The first is the Plaza, or downtown historic area. The second is Cerrillos Road. You can find plenty of hotel choices in the Plaza area – although most will be smaller boutique style hotels and they will be higher priced. Cerrillos Road is not even 15 minutes’ drive from the Plaza area and you’ll find just about every major hotel brand at discounted prices. I stayed at the Comfort Inn one night and the Econo Lodge the second as I was trying to maximize the Choice Brand’s stay two nights, get one free promotion. The Comfort in was nice and clean and I was upgraded to a suite. The Econo Lodge was clean, but older and the fridge didn’t work. You’ll find plenty of free parking at most of the hotels.
Another advantage to staying on Cerrillos is the proximity to some excellent dining options. First there is a Chili’s. Don’t go there. Why is there even a Chili’s in Santa Fe? While you ponder that, you’re going to have to figure something out and you’re going to have to figure it out quick. I can’t help you on this one. Red or Green? That’s the question you’ll be asked with almost every meal in New Mexico. They’re talking about the delicious Hatch Chili Sauce. If you’re really confused, just ask for your meal Christmas style with both the red and green chili.
My pick for your first night would have to be The Pantry located on Cerrillos. The place is an icon and has been around since 1948. The food was great and the service was even better. Plus, they stay open later than most of the surrounding places. Don’t do what I did and order the cup of green chili stew. After my first taste, I realized my mistake – should have ordered the bowl of this amazing creation. My main meal was the Carne Adovada plate, chunks of pork slow-roasted in their red chili sauce. It was good, but I would have traded it to the person next to me for their cup of green chili stew. Luckily, I ordered a side of their green chili as well and all was right in the world again.
The rest of the night is yours. I’d recommend taking a trip up to the Plaza area after dinner to walk around and see the shops and bars. Most shops close early, but the bars are open until 2am. Parking at the various meters is free at night, or there are garages and lots available.
Day 2 – Taos Pueblo, Bridging, and The Enchanted Circle
Day two is going to be a lot of driving, so you’ll want to be up early. For something quicker and lighter than a full meal, I’d recommend you stop by El Parasol for a breakfast burrito. They have 6 locations, and this one is located right on Cerrillos near The Pantry. I had the Carnitas breakfast burrito and was great. The potatoes could have been a little crunchier, but the meat was cooked perfectly in a red chili sauce. Grab a horchata while you’re here – it was one of the better one’s I’ve had in a long time.
I know, I know – you aren’t going anywhere without coffee. I hear you and I’ve got you covered. A few blocks away you’ll find a proper hipster coffee shop, Ikonik Coffee. They were the only coffee shop I found worth visiting – to the point that I stopped here two days in a row. The first day I tried their nitro cold brew coffee. It was a bit bitter for my tastes, but I’m starting to think maybe I just don’t like nitro coffee. I want to like it, but I’m always disappointed.
The second time I tried a drink called “bullet proof”. I imagine when you get to heaven and are waiting in the reception area this is what they serve you. It’s their house blend coffee with honey and salted butter whipped up in a magic bullet looking blender. I went for this on Day 3 before my Sunday morning hike (more on that later). I also picked up a chili shortbread cookie and a vegan, gluten free lemon date granola bar. I imagine it was free range and came with a subscription to organic gardening magazine too, but I didn’t ask. The cookie was unremarkable, but the date bar was delicious and great before a hike. This is the kind of place I’d go every weekend if I lived here – especially if I wanted to make sure people saw me working on my blog in public (otherwise are you even a blogger?).
Fully fed and properly caffeinated, you’ll want to hit the road. We’ve got lots to do and see today. We’re setting off to the town of Taos and we’ve got two options, the low road and the high road. While it’s generally good advice to always take the high road in life – I’m going to suggest you don’t. If you take the low road you’ll primarily be traveling along the scenic Rio Grande River. As you turn the multiple bends in the road you’ll be rewarded as mountain after mountain pops up in the distance. If you’re a bit squeamish about driving back on the high road as it gets darker, take the high road now and the low road back.
First, and only stop in Taos is the Taos Pueblo. The Taos Pueblo is the only living Native American community designated as both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Landmark. You’ll be able to walk around a good portion of the Pueblo, take a free tour that includes the church building (tips appreciated), and buy some of the traditional and homemade food baked in a horno (a mud-adobe outdoor oven). I tried the Pinon Nut coffee, some beef jerky and a phien-thue (fruit pie), the later being my favorite. Entrance is $16 and parking was ample. The bathroom facilities here are clean and well maintained. Read more and check for site/road closures here.
When you are done at the Pueblo, make your way over to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. This amazing steel deck arch style bridge spans the Rio Grande. It is the highest bridge in New Mexico and the 7th highest in the United States. You’ll get an amazing view of the Rio Grande Gorge. Parking can be found on the side of the road right before you get to the bridge. Alternatively, you can cross the bridge and park in the official lot. Here you’ll find various vendors setup and selling everything from art to food. There are also decent bathroom facilities here.
After you’re done at the bridge, turn around and go back the way you came to get to Route 552. Here begins the Enchanted Circle. A series of highways that encircle Wheeler Peak, the tallest mountain in New Mexico. It’s all about the driving and views at this point. From the bridge, around Wheeler Peak, and back to Taos via the high road will take you about 3 hours and 45 minutes without stopping. You’ll want to stop for pictures at the very least, so plan on 5-6 hours to be safe.
Watch for free range goats wandering the roadside as you get close to goat hill. Most towns along this route are sleepy when it isn’t ski season, but Red River had quite a bit of stores and activity (mostly campers). Eagle Nest has a huge mountain lake and it’s worth pulling down one of the dirt roads to get a better view or take a break from driving. Head back to Sante Fe and get a good night’s sleep as you’ll be getting up early in the morning.
Day 3 – Hoodoos, Chili Ice Cream, and Rattlesnakes
On your last day, it’s time for a hike (don’t worry, this isn’t the part about the snakes). Hopefully you’ll have started to become acclimated to the altitude by now. It’s important to remember when traveling from a low elevation to a high elevation that it takes some time for your body to acclimate and exercise will seem more strenuous than it did closer to sea level. Always take it slow and drink plenty of water.
We’re heading to the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. This is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, but the Cochiti people can still close the site for religious or other reasons. Here you’ll find one of the only places to hike up close to hoodoos, through slot canyons, and be rewarded with an amazing view all in the same hike. Hoodoos are the tall, skinny rocks that look like tents. The hike is moderate and most people of reasonable fitness should have no problems with it. You start out in a sandy forest, make your way through a slot canyon of varying thickness, and finally make your way up some natural and man-made stairs to the top. There are plenty of places to stop and rest along the way and the trail is very clearly marked. Almost the entire hike is exposed so be sure to plan water/sun protection accordingly. Get here early! It is about an hour drive from Santa Fe so plan accordingly. I arrived shortly after the park opened and there were only 6 other cars in the parking lot. When I returned from my hike, the entire parking lot was full and there were cars in the overflow lot across the street. There are bathroom facilities and Porta Potties available at the trailhead.
After the hike, it’s worth going a little further down the road to get to the Veterans Memorial Scenic Overlook. You’ll have to drive down a dirt road and up some switchbacks to get to the top of the hill this is located on. I had an SUV on this trip, but there were a few small Toyota and Honda cars at the top. If it is extremely muddy that day you might not want to try it in a car. The view from the top is nice and there is a plaque pointing out all the places of interest in the landscape before you. There is also a bathroom facility at the top. There are more hiking trails at the top if you’ve got some time to kill before heading back to the Albuquerque area.
After the hike, what better way to reward yourself than with some homemade gelato? I recommend taking the Turquoise road back to Santa Fe and avoiding the highway. It’s quite scenic in this direction as well and it will bring you back through the town of Madrid. Your first stop should be Jezebel Studio and Gallery. Yes, this is an antique/craft shop with an ice cream and coffee bar in the back. Remembering you’re in New Mexico — the first thing you need to figure out is red or green. That’s right — homemade hatch chili gelato. I picked both the Mayan Red Chili Chocolate and the New Mexican Green Chili Vanilla Caramel. Green chili won again, but both were excellent. Spend a little more time walking around this quirky town as I’d imagine there aren’t many like it left.
If you’ve still got time before your flight – I’d recommend a stop in Albuquerque’s “Old Town” area on the way to the airport. It’s close to the airport so you won’t have to worry about traffic and you can leave close to the time you need to be there for your flight. There is an old church and plenty of stores selling tchotchkes if you’re into that kind of stuff. There are also restaurants and peddle/ghost/carriage tours available. If you time it right, you can even catch a New Mexico gunfight reenactment in the street.
While I was wandering, I stumbled upon and odd little place just off the main square area. The American International Rattlesnake Museum. I’ll admit I was drawn in by the claim of the “the largest collection of different species of live rattlesnakes in the world” and I was not disappointed (spoiler: 34 types). Admission is $5 and I would have paid double or triple that. The museum is small, only about 3 rooms, but you could probably spend a few hours here is you wanted to. Besides the snakes, they also had turtles, lizards, and spiders. There was an educational movie playing on repeat in the back room and they had a large collection of informational items and old antique promotional items that referenced snakes. There was even a decommissioned missile. The adjoining store had a great selection of gifts and reptile themed memorabilia for purchase.
Have any tips for other Wanderers heading to these locations? Leave your comments below.